How To Raise A Swing Set

Building a backyard swing ready. Treat your kids to a regal recreation fix for those times when play's the thing.

Female parent has never been one to turn down a good offer, so when Iowa reader Paul Swenson agreed to share his wooden swing set plans, we took him up on it. His design came from studying playsets in public parks and looking through dozens of catalogs. His motivation? Downright practical:

"The garden was becoming a pain, so I put a sandbox there, and I made it big and then I could play in it with my daughter. The measurements are based on what could be done using 8 foot railroad ties, standard lumber and nice round numbers."

Happily, the information and sketches Paul provided allowed our research and workshop specialist, Dennis Burkholder, to build a indistinguishable in a staffer's back yard (he also worked in a few changes for improvement'due south sake). The finished play ready, dubbed "swing urban center" by the kids (more than for the capital sprawl of its 12 feet by sixteen feet by twenty feet dimensions than for its hanging hardware), was a sensation even before commodities one was drawn tight.

Earlier breaking footing in your own yard, meet if you have the room. Though the sandbox is less than ix feet square, the tiptop beam extends some two-ane/2 anxiety and five-ane/ii anxiety beyond either side. The slide projects nearly 12 feet forward of the sandbox.

If infinite isn't a problem, materials and tools should be a cinch. All the lumber and hardware you'll need are itemized in the materials list–nothing unusual, except peradventure for the galvanized slide surface, which whatever sheet metal shop should exist able to fold up for near $forty. An boilerplate drove of tools will get the job done, but in add-on to a record measure, claw hammer, large screwdriver, locking pliers and adaptable wrench, you should have a crosscut handsaw, a coping saw, a level and a protractor, a shovel, a rake and a 3/8-inch electric drill with 1/8-inch and 3/l6-inch bits, and a long 1/two-inch spade bit. A round saw tin be used for the few rip cuts if you don't have access to a table saw.

Material List

• eight- 8 foot railroad or large landscaping ties for sandbox
• iv- iv X4 X 12 foot for leg posts
• 2- ii X 6 X sixteen human foot for beams
• 1-two X 4 10 16 pes for axle cap
• ii-ii 10 vi X 10 foot (cutting in half) for deck joists/railing
• iii- 2 X vi X 12 pes (cut in half) for deck joists/railing
• 5- 2 10 iv X 12 foot (rip-cut to ii 10 2s) for balusters
• 12- 2 X 4 X 10 foot (cutting in half) for floor decking
• 5- 2 X iv X 6 foot (cut as described) for ladder rungs
• 2- 2 Ten vi X xvi human foot slide sides
• 1-2 Ten 6 10 10 human foot (cut as described) for slide run-off
• two- 2 X four X 12 foot (rip-cut to 2-one/two") for slide ledgers
• 1- ii X 4 X 6 foot (rip-cut to 2-1/2″) for slide run-off ledgers
• 1- three/4" X four′ X 8′ exterior plywood for slide bottom
• i- 26″ 10 xvi′ 20-gauge galv. canvass metal for slide surface
• 2- vi″ barn door hinges for slide hangers
• 32- 80d (8″) galv. spikes for sandbox fasteners
• 8- 1/two″ X 14″ carriage bolts, washers & nuts for sandbox/leg hardware
• two- 1/2″ X 6:' carriage bolts, washers & nuts for beam/leg hardware (upper)
• 2- 1/2″ X 8″ carriage bolts, washers & basics for beam/leg hardware (lower)
• viii- ane/2″ X six″ wagon bolts, washers & nuts for deck hardware
• 28- No. 12 Ten i-1/four″ flathead wood screws for slide hanger fasterners
• six-i/2″ X eight″ eyebolts, washers & lock nuts for swing hardware
• half dozen- 1/2″ concatenation repair links for swing hardware
• six- ane/2″ cable optics for swing hardware
• 12- 1/2″ cable clamps for swing hardware
• 1 roll baling wire for swing hardware
• 72 in of i/two inches polypropylene rope (60′ minimum) for swing
• 3- swing seat replacement kits or safe slings
• 5lbs. of lumber fasteners of 10d anchor or screw nails
• 1- x.5 oz. construction adhesive for lumber
• 12- ii X half-dozen framing corner hangers (optional)

Since the playground will constantly be exposed to the elements, pressure-treated lumber and galvanized or plated hardware are the best choices. Latex paint and other woods-surface sealers tin can and probably should be used, but it'due south a skilful idea to let the woods weather for at least three months earlier applying any sealer or paint blanket.

Once your materials are ready, you can brainstorm the assembly of the sections, starting with the sandbox and the overhead beam framing, moving to the deck, its railing and the ladder, then tackling the slide. The swing hardware can be put upward last.

To set up the sandbox, level a ix anxiety past 9 feet area, and place the first grade of foundation timbers in a square, with ends meeting sides. Overlap the second grade on summit and so the upper joints don't meet the lower ones, then spike the two courses together from the sides.

The beam consists of ii 2 past 6s capped with a two past 4. It can be glued and clamped, then nailed together … or even bolted, if you wish. Refer to the drawing, and mark the holes for the swing eyes first, so you don't put a nail in the wrong place. When the beam'south finished, drill the eye holes through its center and bolt in the six eyes. Now position and drill the 4 one/2-inch cross-holes where the legs will join the axle. The distance betwixt the two sets of holes should exist iii-i/two inches less than the actual within measurement of the sandbox.

Bank check the leg detail, and notch each of the 4 posts to the angle shown, then drill cantankerous-holes to lucifer those on the axle. Lay the front set of legs on the basis, and use the 6-inch and eight-inch wagon bolts to position the beam. Utilise a couple of the ladder 2 by 4s equally temporary nailed braces to hold the rear legs up as you guide them over the bolt ends and tighten the nuts.

To heighten the structure, cross-caryatid the legs and beam with the two 12 human foot slide 2 past 4s, and tie the swing rope to the approximate middle of the axle. Then position the whole matter at the edge of the box, and take two people lift and "walk" the leg pairs up, while a third pulls the rope from the opposite side. Square the legs upward against the box corners, and fasten them to each form with the 1/ii-inch by xiv-inch carriage bolts.

After removing the temporary braces, cut a ten foot 2 by 6 to make two 5 human foot pieces, and attach them to the insides of the legs, with their lower edges 65 inches in a higher place the surface of the box. Use 6-inch wagon bolts, and check to make certain the boards are level. Cutting the four flooring joists to friction match the distance between the boards, and so nail them in place from the ends (for extra strength, use metal framing hangers, available from a lumber supplier). Cut and nail down the 2 by iv decking planks (they should be spaced about 3/16 inch apart, and shouldn't extend beyond the framing), then measure and smash the meridian railing in identify and so its upper edge is 30 inches above the floor.

The balusters tin can be either bought set-fabricated or cutting from two past 4s. The ends should be tapered at a 45 degree angle to shed continuing water. Boom 2 uprights to each corner outset, then space the others evenly betwixt; they'll fall nigh 7-1/2 inches apart, and you lot'll have to trim eight of them to fit confronting the legs.
Leave the front end open until after you lot've fitted the ladder and slide.

To make the ladder, simply taper one cease of two 6-human foot 2 by 4s then they're affluent to the face of the deck frame when set on the box. The lower ends can exist trimmed and the runway and so nailed in place at both ends. The 8 23-inch rungs can be spaced 8 inches apart–or closer if you lot have pocket-size children and an extra 6 foot lath.

Ideally, the slide metallic should be folded into 2 20-inch-wide sections–1 31 inches long and the other 144 inches in length. If the sheet metal shop cannot brand a 12 foot fold, it's OK to accept 1 8 human foot and one 4 foot piece. Observe that the 20 inch width represents simply the surface; there is an additional 3 inch lip on each side–and two inch lips at the ends–of each section, both of which should resemble trays when completed.

Cutting the 3/iv-inch plywood canvas to fit the trays; the boards should exist twenty inches wide by 31 inches, 48 inches and 96 inches in length, more than or less. And so cutting one 12-inch by 17-inch piece from what's left over. Use a power saw to rip (slice full length) ane inch from the ii 12 pes ii past 4s and the remaining half-dozen human foot piece, and cut the short board into ii 31 inch pieces. Gum and nail these rip-cut ledgers to the plywood so they're flush with the edges, then slip the wooden assemblies into their respective metal trays, and drive a few tacks through the side lips.

The slide'due south 16 foot sideboards should each be cut to xv anxiety, rounded at ane stop and double-beveled at the other. That done, glue and blast the 12 foot slide section to the boards so information technology's flush with the rounded ends and i-iii/4 inches below the upper edges, taking care not to allow the nail points poke through the sides. A 23-inch 2 past 6 tin be added to the frame'southward bottom bevel to serve as a supporting foot.

To fasten the slide to the deck frame, offset nail the 12-inch by 17-inch plywood section beneath the slide's upper stop, then attach the half dozen-inch hinges to that lath and to the front end joist. Both the nails and the hinge screws should exist no more 1-1/4 inches long; feel free to use 1/4-inch bolts at the joist for extra strength.

The run-off sideboards are each cut to 30 inches in length, then rounded at one end and beveled to a twenty-caste angle at the other. Fasten the 31-inch slide section to its boards so it volition butt confronting the principal slide, and then boom the run-off sides and the ledgers to the main frame. Supports cut from the ii by 6 flake tin can be nailed to join the run-off and master side frames.

At this indicate, you're fix to wrap things up. Add the remaining balusters to the front of the deck, so thread the 1/ii inch rope through your swing-seat cloth and clamp it to itself. The tail should exist wire-tied to the chief rope, then both taped together. Seats, by the manner, can exist purchased as replacement kits or only cut from old tires or industrial conveyor belts. Rings or a trapeze bar might also exist used, especially at the outer-about position.

Make up one's mind the length of rope needed for each swing or bar, so bind the upper loops in the same mode every bit the lower ones. Use a metal cable eye at whatsoever identify where the rope contacts a steel fastener; then you can connect the eyes to eyebolts with sturdy concatenation repair links.

The last step, of form, is to shovel about 2 cubic yards of clean, washed sand-known to brick masons as Columbian sand–into the box. It's a dismal prospect, merely if you accept the sand delivered, it can probably be dumped into place. Don't worry near what to do later on. Your kids– and most of the neighbors'–will take care of that role all by themselves.

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Originally published as "The King of Backyard Swings" May/June 1988 Female parent EARTH NEWS.

How To Raise A Swing Set,

Source: https://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/backyard-swing-set-zmaz88mjzgoe/

Posted by: quesinberryallake.blogspot.com

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